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For our 4th anniversary, we decided to go on a great journey, over three weeks that would take us to Turkey and Greece.
Our first stop was Istanbul, Turkey. We arrived to Istanbul on May 5th. Istanbul is the largest city and seaport of Turkey. It was formerly the capital of the Byzantine Empire, of the Ottoman Empire, and until 1923 of the Turkish Republic. Istanbul used to be known as Constantinople until the fall of the Byzentine Empire.
Throughout its long history, Istanbul has acquired a reputation for being a cultural and ethnic melting pot. As a result, there are many historical mosques, churches, synagogues, palaces, castles and towers to visit in the city.
In Istanbul, we stayed at Hotel Nena located in the Sultanahmet neighborhood. Hotel Nena is a boutique hotel. It was very clean with an extremely friendly staff. The hotel is located 2 minutes away from the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya.
http://www.istanbulhotelnena.com/
Construction of the Walls of Constantinople began under Constantine the Great, who enlarged the previously existing walls of Byzantium in order to defend the new Roman capital city which quickly grew following its proclamation as Nova Roma. After a nice walk alongside the ancient wall, around the Eminönü district, we decided to visit the first monument.
The Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya), built by Justinian between 532 and 537, is widely regarded as the masterpiece of Byzantine architecture. It was the largest ever cathedral built in the world for more than a thousand years, until the completion of the Seville Cathedral in 1575, during the Renaissance period.
Hagia Sophia is a former patriarchal basilica, later a mosque, now a museum. Famous in particular for its massive dome, it is considered one of the most beautiful buildings in the world.
The Hagia Sophia has been built three times. There is nothing left of the first church, but here you can see several marble blocks of the second church (inaugurated in the year 405) which are displayed in the garden of the current (third) church. These marble slabs were excavated in the western courtyard by A.M. Schneider in 1935. They were part of a monumental front entrance.
Virgin and Child : this was the first of the post-iconoclastic mosaics. It was inaugurated on 29 March 867 by Patriarch Photios and the emperors Michael III and Basil I. This mosaic is situated in a high location on the half dome of the apse. Mary is sitting on a throne without a back, holding the Child Jesus on her lap. Her feet rest on a pedestal. Both the pedestal and the throne are adorned with precious stones.
All interior surfaces are sheathed with polychrome marbles, green and white with purple porphyry and gold mosaics, encrusted upon the brick. This sheathing camouflaged the large pillars, giving them a brighter aspect.
I Wish I May, I Wish I Might -- According to legend, when construction of the Ayasofya reached the height of a man, the construction team set out to get a bite to eat, leaving their tools under the watch of a small boy. An angel appeared and urged the boy to fetch the men so that they could return to the work of building God's house. When the boy told the angel that he promised not to leave the tools unattended, the angel promised to keep an eye on everything until his return. After leaving the site and thus breaking his promise, the boy was never allowed to return, and the angel continues to wait for him. Legend has it that the angel grants a wish to all those who successfully complete a 360-degree circle with their thumb in the hole of this wish-worn column.
When the construction of the Ayasofya was completed in A.D. 537, the emperor raised his hands to heaven and proclaimed, "Glory to God who has deigned to let me finish so great a work. O Solomon, I have outdone thee!"
In the Hagia Sophia's stone courtyard stands the first Turkish monument, the impressive fountain for ablutions (Sadirvan). Built to serve as a place for ritual ablutions before praying, it is a superb example of Ottoman baroque art. It was built by Sultan Mahmud I in 1740. After The church had become a mosque.
The Ayasofya (known in Greek as the Hagia Sophia and in English as St. Sophia, or Church of the Holy Wisdom), was designed to surpass in grandeur, glory, and majesty every other edifice ever constructed as a monument to God.
Sultanahmet Park is in the center of Istanbul’s old city. The park’s curvaceous ponds and walkways lie between the Blue Mosque and the Ayasofya.
Tourist and locals pour into the Sultanahmet Park to either relax or walk across from the Hagia Sophia to the Blue Mosque. A huge water fountain in the middle of the park offers a fresh breeze that it is welcome during the hottest part of the day.
In the park, you can see many street vendors offering local treats ranging from pretzel looking pastries to roasted corn and nuts.
Sara could not resist the temptation of roasted corn on the cob.
The roasted corn along with a bag of roasted hazelnuts gave us a surge of energy, so we headed over to the next sight.
The Basilica Cistern, Yerebatan Sarnıcı, is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that still lie beneath the city of Istanbul. The cistern was first constructed by Constantine and enlarged to its present form by Justinian after the Nika Revolt using 336 marble columns recycled from the Hellenistic ruins in and around the Bosphorus. The water supply, routed from reservoirs around the Black Sea and transported via the Aqueduct of Valens, served as a backup for periods of drought or siege.
At the far end of the walkway, there are two Medusa heads, one inverted and the other on its side; according to mythology, placing her this way caused her to turn herself into stone. Another superstition is that turning her upside down neutralizes her powers.
We walked out of the Basilica Cistern and decided to head over to the park to relax and plan our next day adventure.
It seemed that everybody was heading to the Gülhane Park. The most impressive part was that probably 80 - 90% were locals, so it was a great opportunity to see what locals do on a Sunday afternoon. You could find many street vendors at the entrance of the park, but it seems that they were forbidden to enter (sell) inside the park.
Gülhane Park is a historical, urban park in Eminönü district. It is the oldest and one of the largest public parks in Istanbul. It is located alongside the Topkapı Palace. The entrance of the park has one of the larger gates of the palace.
The park is spread over a very large area and has very interesting and rare kinds of trees, bushes and flowers. On sundays, Turkish families come here to pic-nic; men hang-out and drink tea; young couples look for the most secluded places; kids play soccer while tourists cannot put the camera away.
After a hard day of touring some of the sites, we decided that it was time to go out for a nice diner. On our way to Balikçi Sabahattin Restaurant, we encountered the Obelisk of Thutmosis III, at the Hippodrome of Constantinople, which was brought from the Temple of Karnak in Egypt by Theodosius the Great.
After enjoying some great seafood at the Balikçi Sabahattin Restaurant, we made our way back to the hotel by heading towards the Süleymaniye Mosque. Sara was in charge of getting us back since on our way to the restaurant I managed to have us explore most of the neighborhood (in other words, I managed to get us lost once again).
The Süleymaniye Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii) is the grand mosque in Istanbul. It was built on the order of sultan Suleiman I (Suleiman the Magnificent) and was constructed by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan.
View of the Blue Mosque, Süleymaniye Camii, from the restaurant terrace at Hotel Nena. It was amazing to have dinner or breakfast looking over the Blue Mosque and/or Hagia Sophia.
The Topkapı Palace's Gate of Greeting (Bab-üs Selam) leads into the palace and the Second Court (Divan Meydanı). An inscription at the door dates this gate to 1542 during the reign of Mehmed II. The towers were added by Süleyman the Magnificent during the 16th century. Only the sultan was allowed to pass this gate on horseback. The gate is richly decorated on both sides and in the upper part with religious inscriptions and monograms with names of sultans.
The Topkapı Palace was built on the site of the old acropolis of ancient Greek Byzantion. After the fall of Constantinople, it became not just the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans and their households, but also the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1465 to 1853. 
The palace is full of examples of Ottoman style architecture and also owns large collections of porcelain, robes, weapons, shields, armors, Ottoman miniatures, Islamic calligraphic manuscripts and mural decorations, as well as a display of accumulated Ottoman treasures and jewelry.
The Harem, which in Arabic means “forbidden,” refers to the private section of a household where women live and work. 
There are approximately 300 rooms, and the Harem housed as many as 500 people. Here lived the family of the sultan: the Sultana Valide (mother of the sultan) who ruled the harem, the four wives, the numerous concubines, the children, the servants and the eunuchs whose black chief (Kızlar Ağası) was the only one to know all the secret desires of the sultan.
In the Harem of the Topkapı Palace, women were allowed to leave its confines only on very special occasions; these women had much influence. Their life was based on intrigues and each woman sought to promote the interests of their own children. 
The harem was a mark of wealth and power, and was therefore reserved to the upper class.
The interior of the palace and its walls and ceilings were decorated with countless multicolor mosaics, beautiful carpets and ellaborate designs that many times contained inscriptions.
The Throne Room Within (Hall of Diversions) (Hünkâr Sofası) was renovated in Rococo style under Osman III. This is the most imposing space in the palace. It has the largest dome in the palace. The sultan received here his confidants, guests, his mother, his first wife and his children.
Compared to other famous royal residences like the extravagant Versailles, the layout of the Topkapı Palace distinguishes itself with its human, but assymetric proportions, sensible interiors and prudent layout.
The Topkapı Palace's Fourth Court was more of a private garden of the Sultan and consists of a number of pavilions, kiosks (köşk), gardens and terraces. It had great views of the Bosphorous and Golden Horn.
I really liked these black flowers at the The Palace's Fourth Court.
We took a little break while enjoying the view of the Bosphorous and the beauty and tranquility of the garden (until a swarm of tourists started invading every inch of the garden).
After touring the palace we decided to go a few steps down from the main palace's entrance and visit The Istanbul Archaeology Museum. The Istanbul Archaeology Museum consists of three museums: the main Archeology Museum, the Old Eastern Works Museum and the Enameled Kiosk Museum.
The museum houses over one million objects that represent almost all of the eras and civilizations in world history.
Zeus in Greek mythology is the king of the gods, the ruler of Mount Olympus, and god of the sky and thunder. Oscar and Zeus got into whom was sporting the biggest guns contest.
The museum has a fantastic collection of Greek, Hellenistic and Roman artifacts.
In the museum lies the mummy of a Phoenician king named Tabnit I. Only a few fragments of preserved skin remain on King Tabnit's nearly intact body. On his coffin, the king curses anyone who would disturb him. "They and their breed shall not find peace in this or any other world."
The Süleymaniye Mosque was constructed between 1609 and 1617 by Sultan Ahmet I, who was not only driven by a desire to leave behind an imperial namesake mosque, but was also determined to build a monument to rival the Ayasofya.
The mosque was completed after just over 6 1/2 years of work and to this day remains one of the finest examples of classical Ottoman architecture. The original complex included a soup kitchen, a medrese (Muslim theological school), a primary school, a hospital, and a market.
Visitors are allowed into the mosque free of charge, but a donation is warmly welcomed after exiting the mosque. No visitors are allowed during prayer times. Everybody has to remove their shoes before entering, and women have to cover their head and shoulders.
At its lower levels the interior of the mosque is lined with more than 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles, made at Iznik (the ancient Nicaea). Its upper levels are painted. More than 200 stained glass windows with intricate designs admit natural light, today assisted by chandeliers. The decorations include verses from the Qur'an.
Only men are allowed to pray at the main floor. There are designated areas for women to pray in. It is as impressive in the inside as it is on the outside.
Most public toilets in Turkey are basically a hole in the ground. Just going to the toilet can be a memorable experience in its own, specially for women.
The Fountain of Wilhelm II (Alman Çesmesi) was crafted in Germany and assembled in Istanbul to commemorate the emperor's visit to the city in 1895. The fountain is located at northern end of the Hippodrome. The Hippodrome is a silent witness of centuries of rowdy chariot races, ostentatious royal celebrations and bloody massacres.
Sara and I were fortunate enough that Hotel Nena was located 1/2 block away from a great Mexican restaurant. I was tempted to walk in, but since they didn't have Negra Modelo beer, we decided to get in a taxi and go across town for a great (amazing) dining experience.
Asitane Restaurant was a very memorable experience and a few steps above El Torito. The Asitane restaurant is renowned for its fine Ottoman cuisine based on authentic recipes retrieved by a dedicated staff from Topkapi Palace archives. 
It's not often that you'll get to try Ottoman dishes devised especially for a 16th-century royal circumcision feast, but this is what's on offer here. The food is magnificent, and the wine was some of the best we had in Turkey.
After feasting like royalty, we went for a short walk in the Sultanahmet Park. All the white spots that you see on top of the Blue Mosque are birds that flight above it all. It seems and feels very holy.
Grand Bazaar (Kapali Çarsisi) is one of the largest covered markets in the world with more than 58 streets and 4,000 shops, and has between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. It is well known for its jewelry, pottery, spice, and carpet shops. 
The bazaar consisted originally of two 15th century buildings with thick walls that were covered with a series of domes. In later centuries the streets around these buildings developed and were covered and new additions were made, turning it into a trading center.
The Grand Bazaar is a small town in itself, with miles of passageways, mosques, banks, police stations and restaurants.
The architectural design of the roads making up other sections apart from the two bedestens has a scattered nature due to its formation which took many centuries with new parts being added.
The covered bazaar is crowded and bustling the whole day. Shop owners insistently invite the visitors to their shops. In the large and comfortable shops at the entrance one can find examples of all the hand-made articles produced in Turkey.
The Grand Bazaar extends to streets adjecent to the covered section. It just feels that there is no end. Unfortunately, the only item I was desperately looking for I couldn't find (a Frommer's Turkey Guide Book).
Istanbul University, as one of the oldest educational institutions, not only of Turkey, but also of the world, was founded when Mehmet the Conqueror conquered Constantinople in 1453. Its graduates have frequently been the main source of academic staff for the Turkish university system, as well as providing a very large number of Turkish bureaucrats, professionals, and business people.
It was time to head over to the Spice Bazaar. I have a tendency to walk all over the city (Sara likes to believe that I get lost), so we can get to see neighborhoods a little off the tourist trail and experience a little of the local culture.
The Spice Bazaar in Istanbul (also known as the Egyptian Bazaar or Mısır Çarşısı) was built in 1664 and is one of the oldest bazaars in the city. Located in Eminönü, it is the second largest covered shopping complex after the Grand Bazaar. Sara purchased some mixed nuts (kind of a Turkish trail mix) that tasted great and kept us going were we were starting to get a little hungry.
It is named The Spice Bazaar because various spices from the Orient were offered here in the past, and the alternative name, 'Egypian Bazaar', was given beacuse the spices came via Egypt. 
Spices, dried fruits, nuts and seeds, lokum (Turkish Delight) and other edibles fill most of the shops, though jewelry and other high-margin goods have begun to move in.
Once all of the shops inside the bazaar used to sell spices, but over the time some have turned into dried fruit, grocery and gift shops or jewelers. It is one of the attractive sites in Istanbul with its vivacious and distinctive atmosphere.
Galata Bridge is the heart of Istanbul, spanning the Golden Horn from Karaköy on the north to Old Istanbul, centered on Sultanahmet, on the south. When crossing the bridge if you look west, you will be looking towards Europe. If you look east, you will be looking across the Bosphorus to Üsküdar and Asia.
After you crossed the Galata Bridge into the northern districts of Istanbul, you will see adjecent to a small park an open air market where you can buy fresh fish and vegatables. If you are hungry, you can buy a fish and pay a few Turkish Lira to have it deep fried on the spot.
After visiting the Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar and walked accross the Galata Bridge, we felt that we needed a break and to enjoy the magnifecent view from across the Golden Horn.
After a short break, it was time for me to get us lost; I mean to explore Istanbul's northern neighborhoods until we could reach the Galata Tower.
After walking uphill for what it seemed miles, we reached the Galata Tower. The Galata Tower is one of the most prominent landmarks in the city on the European Side, located in Old Pera(Beyoglu) district.
The Galata Tower offers the best view of the Golden Horn, Old Istanbul, the entrance to the Bosphorus and the Asian shore. There is a restaurant and café on its upper floors. Also located on the upper floors is a nightclub which hosts a Turkish show.
The origins of Galata Tower date back to the 5th or 6th century, but the tower that stands today is a 14th-century reconstruction by the Genoese, built in appreciation of Michael VIII Palaeologus, who granted special permission to allow them to settle the area of Galata.
The observation deck is spectacular, it gives you the opportunity of a 360 degrees of vision. Form here you can take some amazing pictures or simply enjoy Istanbul's magnificent beauty.
Did I mention it gives you the opportunity of 360 degrees of vision?
The market area in the Galata Bridge's first floor opened to common use in 2003. Here you will find tons of restaurants that are better known for being tourist traps than their food.
We had our final dinner in Istanbul at the Hotel Nena's Rooftop Restaurant. It was a great way to finish up our Istanbul visit with very good food and an amazing night view of the Haghia Sophia and The Blue Mosque