Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Kona, Big Island, Hawaii 2008

Kona, Hawaii, Big Island

For our 5th Anniversary, our family had grown with the addition of Eleni Nicole to the family. Eleni was 2-months old, so we wanted to go to somewhere we could relax, so Kona in Hawaii became our destination of choice.

(To view the full size picture, click on it)

Hawaii Big Island is famous for the active Kilauea volcano. The Big Island has eleven different climate zones that generate everything from lush rain forests to arid deserts, black sand beaches to snow-capped mountaintops. The Big Island is Hawaii’s biggest playground.
Our destination in the Big Island was Kona-Kailua. The history of Kona-Kailua includes Hawaiian royalty, Christian missionaries and Captain James Cook. Kona-Kailua offered us a place where we could get some sun at the area's stunning beaches - white sand, black sand and a variety of shades in between.
Our Journey started on May 12th, very early in the morning. We drove to SFO where our flight was delayed for over two hours. Eleni stayed awake throughout the delay, so we were very concerned that she would have a melt down the whole flight.
Eleni was an angel during the flight. She stayed awake for most of the flight, but she loved looking at people and the attention she got from the flight attendants.
After over a 5 hour flight, we landed at Kona International Airport. We picked up our car rental and headed to the condo that we were going to call home for the next 10 days.
It took around 30 minutes driving from the airport to get to our final destination, at Kahalu'u Beach Villas complex where we rented a two bedroom, two bathroom condo.
The condo was very clean, and it had all we could possible need to make our visit to Hawaii very comfortable.
The kitchen was fully equipped.
Eleni's room was nice, and it had two beds Eleni could choose from.
Eleni picked her bed and started unpacking right away.
The master bedroom was big with its own master bathroom and access to the Lanai.
Eleni wanted to exchange rooms since she felt that our bed was more comfortable.
The complex had a pool that had an excellent ocean view.
This was our view from our private Lanai in the third floor.
Watching the sunset while enjoying a glass of wine or cold beer became one our favorite pastime, specially after a long day of exploring the island.




In our first day in Kona, we had a quick breakfast at Burger King (no shame on that, we were traveling, we needed something quick) while trying to figure out how to get to Costco to load up with food and alcohol.
Our condo was located right across Kahaluu Beach Park. Kahaluu is one of the best snorkeling spots on the Big Island.
Kahalu'u Beach waters are colorful with corals, rock formations and 100+ species of fish.
In the days of the Hawaiian Kings, King Kamehameha wanted a safe place for his family to enjoy the ocean. He had his workers construct a seawall in the surf to protect a small cove on the sunny side of the Big Island. This cove today is known as Kahalu'u Beach Park, one of the most popular swimming and best snorkeling sites in the Kona District.
Kahalu'u is well visited because of the calm, protected waters, perfect for families and kids. The shallow and clear waters are abundant with sea life. Shady trees surround this beautiful sandy beach.
After hanging out at Kahalu'u Beach, we headed to Walmart and got Eleni a swing where she could enjoy the wonderful Hawaiian weather.
In our third day in the island, we headed to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park displays the results of 70 million years of volcanism, migration, and evolution -- processes that thrust a bare land from the sea and clothed it with unique ecosystems, and a distinct human culture. The Volcano House is a hotel located at the park's entrance; here you can get some food to go if you would like to picnic somewhere in the park, which we did.
The park highlights two of the world's most active volcanoes, and offers insights on the birth of the Hawaiian Islands and views of dramatic volcanic landscapes.
Over 300 archeological sites have been discovered in Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. These sites can be found from the coastal lowlands to the alpine zone.
From the park entrance, we followed the Crater Rim Drive. The Crater Rim Drive is an 11 mile drive that encircles a large portion of the volcano's crater.
The incredible 11-mile Crater Rim Drive loop road skirts the rim of Kilauea Caldera. It passes the visitor center, a museum, a lava tube, steam vents, rifts, hiking trails and great views of the smoking crater.
Three miles from the park entrance is the Halemaʻumaʻu Crater. The crater is about 3,000 feet across and almost 300 feet deep. The Halemaʻumaʻu Crater expels about 300 tons of sulfur dioxide daily both within the crater and along the rim.
Halemaʻumaʻu is home to Pele, Goddess of Hawaiian Volcanoes, according to the traditions of the native people.
On March 2008, there was a small explosion in Halemaʻumaʻu crater, the first explosive event since 1924 and the first eruption in the Kīlauea caldera since September 1982.
Debris from the explosion was scattered over an area of 74 acres. A small amount of ash was also reported at a nearby community. The explosion covered part of Crater Rim Drive and damaged Halemaʻumaʻu overlook. The explosion did not release any lava.
During our visit we stopped at The Thomas A. Jaggar Museum. The museum is located on the rim of Kīlauea Caldera, and features exhibits about volcanoes, lava and the scientific equipment and clothing used by volcanologists. Some of the museum's windows provide a sheltered view of the Kīlauea Caldera and Halemaumau Crater.
From the museum we drove to the Steam Vents. At the Steam Vents rainwater sinks through the ground and is warmed by rocks which carry heat from the lava below. Hot water then rises through fissures to condense in the chilled air.
The steam also contains sulfur dioxide and hydrogen sulfide. Prolonged exposure can be dangerous.
The area between the caldera's edge and outer cliffs of Kilauea Caldera is a treeless plain. The ground just a few feet down is so hot that tree roots can not survive. But shallow-rooted grasses and plants grow here.
From the Crater Rim Drive Road, we went took Chain of Craters Road. The Chain of Craters Road follows a line of pit craters and descends 3,700 feet in 20 miles and ends where a 2003 lava flow crossed the road.
Along the way are numerous places to stop and explore including a large area of ancient petroglyphs.
On our way to the end of the road, we stopped at the Kealakomo lookout. We had a quick picnic here where we were able to enjoy some amazing views.
The Kealakomo lookout peers down over a 2,000 ft drop to the ocean. The pavilion faces the direction of the Kealakomo village which was destroyed in a 1971 lava flow.
The Holei Sea Arch: Sea arches are formed when a portion of a lava tube in the cliff is exposed to years of exposure to surf and erodes to leave only an arch. These interesting natural structures have only a limited lifespan.
Beautiful view of the blue water just above the Holei Sea Arch.
From the end of the road, it's about a mile walk to the area where you can see the lava entering the ocean. The lava flows change periodically, so the distance needed to walk may vary from one visit to the next.
The old lava fields create a desert like environment that seem pretty alien to any of us that have not been exposed to volcanic environments. Many of these lava flows destroyed (flowed over) sections of the Chain of Craters Road.
Chain of Craters Road gets its name from the numerous old craters found alongside the road. Some of the old craters are the Lua Manu Crater, the Ko'oko'olau Crater, etc.
Thurston Lava Tube, also called Nahuku, is located in the rain forest ecological zone. The abundant rainfall contributes to the lush growth of the forest canopy trees and the understorey vegetation.
The famous Thurston Lava Tube formed about 350-500 years ago. At that time a large vent, called the Ai-laau shield, was erupting on the east side of Kilauea's summit. Lava from this vent buried the entire north flank of Kilauea, all the way to the ocean.
Lava tubes are a common feature of the creation of the volcanic landscape. As molten lava flows down the side of the mountain, the surface cools. The lava then flows underground, through these self-made tubes.
The distances that the lava travels are extended since the tube's roof effectively insulates the molten lava, keeping it fluid for a longer time. When the eruption stops, lava drains from the tube, leaving it an open chamber. The often thin roof may collapse in time.
The Thurston Lava Tube is the only show cave amongst the numerous lava tubes on the Hawai'ian islands. It can be visited all day without restrictions on a self guided tour.
Thurston Lava Tube is entered through a collapsed part of the roof. The exit is another, much smaller, collapsed part of the roof. The Thurston Lava Tube is pretty short, 150m is not much compared to other lava tubes with tens or hundreds of kilometres. On the other hand, lava tubes are very uniform, so you can see most typical features of this type of caves in Thurston Lava Tube very well.
Kailua Pier is the action central for water adventures. Fishing charters, snorkel cruises, and party boats all come and go here. It's also a great place to watch the sunset.
Erected in 1820, the Moku'aikaua Church was the first Christian church to be established in the Hawaiian Islands. Originally it was a simple thatched building, intended only as an interim place to hold services. The proud building that now stands was built in 1836 out of crushed coral and lava rock. It is in perfect condition and still holds services. Inside the church is a model of the brig Thaddeus, which carried the first missionaries to Kona Town in the early 19th century.
Hulihee Palace: This two-story New England-style mansion of lava rock and coral mortar, built in 1838 by the Big Island's governor, John Adams Kuakini, overlooks the harbor at Kailua-Kona. The largest, most elegant residence on the island when it was erected, Hulihee became a home to Hawaii's royalty, making it the other royal palace in the United States (the most famous being Oahu's Iolani Palace).
Downtown Kailua-Kona is geared toward tourists, with many T-shirt shops, boutiques, gift shops and restaurants. But still is a good place to go to have a cup of coffee or beer and people watch.
We stopped for lunch at the Kona Inn. In 1928 the Kona Inn was built by the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company. This venture was considered to be a pioneering effort in the neighbor island hotel industry.
http://www.windandsearestaurants.com/konainn/home.htm
Once again, Eleni only allowed us to enjoy the appetizer. We have to take turns walking her around in order to be able to enjoy our meals. After my second mai tai, I was not very concerned with Eleni being a little noisy.
Kealaokamalamalama Church (Hawaiian for “the pathway of the light”) is a non-denominational, Hawaiian congregational, Protestant church. It was founded in 1934 by Rev. Francis K. Akana Sr. in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii.
After lunch, we went for a walk alongside the seawall on the famous Alii Drive.
Eleni decided that it was time for another nap while enjoying the sound of the waves.

It did not take long for Eleni to wake up from her nap.
Bath time.
Hanging out.
The best of the Big Island is available at the colorful open-air Farmers Markets in Hilo, Kailua-Kona, Keauhou, Oceanview, Pahoa, Volcano and Waimea. Here you'll find homegrown, homemade produce at bargain prices.
At the Ali'i Gardens Marketplace on Ali'i Drive in Kailua-Kona, more than 50 merchants sell their wares offering everything from black pearls, Hawaiian crafts and Kona coffee to produce and flowers. The marketplace is open Wednesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Eleni really enjoyed shopping at the Farmers Market, and she was looking forward to wear the dress that she just got.
Bed time.
A walk in our neighborhood alongside Alii Dr.
Very common to see surfers all day long.
St. Peter's Catholic Church is a tiny old-fashioned steeple church that sits on the rocks overlooking the ocean near Kahaluu Beach. It has appeared on many Kailua-Kona postcards, and its charm and views bring hundreds of visitors every year.
The church was built in 1889 on the site of an ancient Hawaiian heiau. Today, many couples choose this quaint chapel for their wedding.
There are only a dozen pews and a pulpet, but the setting is vere serene. A beautiful etched glass window casts soft light over the entire church, especially during the sunset.
The Ku'emanu Heiau is the only temple in the state of Hawaii known to be associated solely with surfing. Hawaiians come here to pay homage to the spirits.
Many of the houses along Alii Drive have very interesting gates.
Eleni embracing the Hawaiian spirit.
La'aloa Beach Park – also known as Magic Sands or White Sands beach. It's called Magic Sands because when rough surf hits, all of the sand is emptied off the beach and temporarily moved out to sea. it all comes back eventually.
This beach was wiped clean during a storm in 1992, and its sand level hasn't returned to the level it used to be before the storm.
The waves at Magic Sands can get moderately high and even curl on their way to breaking on the sandy shore.
Throught our vacation the weather was perfect.
At Eleni's request, we headed to the beach right across from our condo.
Eleni was ready to hit the water at Kahaluu Beach and even attempt some surfing.
Kahaluu Beach is also famous for it’s sea turtles, or Honu. Of all the places in the ocean for a turtle to swim, for some reason they love Kahaluu Beach.
The fish here are unusually comfortable around snorkelers. Typically, schools of large surgeon fish will swim up and greet you as you wade in.
One of the reasons for Kahaluu's abundant fish population is most of the cove is less than neck deep. The deepest spot barely exceeds 10 feet even at high tide. The shallow water allows sunlight to penetrate all the way to the bottom growing lots of healthy coral.
Eleni enjoying a lazy day at the beach.
It is clear that the Contreras had enough of the ocean, and they are ready to take the party somewhere else.
Nothing better to still enjoy Kahaluu Beach from the comforts of your own pool.
Kona Brewing Co. is the first microbrewery of its kind on the Big Island. It produces about 25 barrels (about 124,000 gal.) per year. During their business hours you can take a quick, informal tour of the brewery.
We were looking forwards to have a beer and some food while Eleni was sleeping.
The brewpub on the property serves gourmet pizza, salads and fresh-brewed Hawaiian ales.
I tried the beer sampler, and I can say that most of their dark beers were pretty good.
It was incredible to see the portion sizes. Sara had a pulled pork sandwich while I ordered some nachos that were massive.
Of course, Eleni woke up as soon as the massive plates arrived to our table. I am sure that she was hoping that we would share some of our food with her.

Eleni hanging out and planning next day's adventure.



Preparing dinner for our anniversary celebration.
Our anniversary dinner consisted of shrimp with vegetables, octopus in hawaiin marinate and steamed rice.
Happy 5th anniversary.
Elenin enjoying the morning in our bed.
No comment.
Barn at Parker Ranch. Parker Ranch, founded in 1847, is one of our nation’s older and more historic ranches and, at approximately 135,000 acres, is counted among the larger ranches in the United States.
Eleni is not happy that I missed a turn in the highway, and we ended up driving over 4 hours what should have been an hour drive. She does not understand that I was showing her the rest of the island.
Distant view of the dormant Mauna Kea Volcano. The peak of Mauna Kea is 13,803 feet above mean sea level but 33,476 feet above its base on the floor of the Pacific Ocean. It is the world's tallest mountain by this measure, taller than Mount Everest which is the highest mountain above sea level. The summit of Mauna Kea has been a celestial observatory since ancient times and is considered to be one of the best astronomical sites in the world.
After a longer than expected drive, we arrived at Pololu Lookout. Pololu Valley is located at the end of Highway 270, past the quiet Hawaiian towns of Hawi and Kapa’au which is the Northernmost of a series of majestic valleys that form the east coast of the Kohala Mountain.
Pololu Valley is a pristine and beautiful valley once inhabited by early Hawaiians, but long since abandoned because of fear of Tsunamis.
The lookout offers spectacular and awe-inspiring views. It was worth the long drive to see this spectacular vistas of green sloping cliffs dropping into the ocean below.
In Hawaiian, Pololu means “long spear,” which is echoes the past of this valley where early native Hawaiians once lived long ago.
There is a hiking trail that criss-crosses the valley and and drops down to the beautiful black-sand Pololu Beach, located at the bottom of the valley.
Because of these areas inaccessibility to cars, the area remains calm and pristine and is a great out of the way destination.
After enjoying the Pololu views, we took the highway that would take us back to our condo. Eleni demanded that I took the fastest and shortest way home.
Eleni showing off her Hawaiian dress bought at the Farmers Market.
In our way to Kona from the Pololu Valley, we decided to stop at the Marriott resort for a drink. While we were not able to have a drink at the Marriott, we were lucky to enjoy this beautiful sunset on their grounds.


As we approached the last days of our vacation, we decided to go on a coffee tasting tour. Our first stop was Holualoa Coffee where we did the selfguided tour of their facility and how coffee is processed.
Holualoa Coffee claims that their 100% Pure Kona Coffee is naturally grown and processed, then meticulously roasted and packaged while still warm from the roaster in protective foil bags that maintain peak freshness. They keep no inventory but rather roast to order so that coffee arrives within just days of being roasted.
One of the keys that make Kona Coffee such a great coffee is that it is handpicked. By handpicking the coffee beans, harvesters make sure that all the beans picked are ripped.
Green beans give a more bitter taste to the end product.
It takes three to four years for the coffee beans to reach maturity. Referred to as a berry or cherry, this fruit turns red when it is ready to be harvested. Some trees can get very top-heavy when producing 20 - 40 lbs of coffee at a time
The Grader: Grading is the process of categorizing coffee beans on the basis of various criteria such as size of the bean, where and at what altitude it was grown, how it was prepared and picked, and how good it tastes.
For the finest coffees, origin of the beans (farm or estate, region, cooperative) is especially important. Growers of premium estate or cooperative coffees may impose a level of quality control that goes well beyond conventionally defined grading criteria.
Once the cherry is picked, it is pulped where the red skin is taken off (wet milling) and then washed. After washing, the coffee is carefully dried in large open spaces for 10 - 14 days depending on sunlight. It is critical for coffee to dry thoroughly in large, airy spaces so most of the moisture can be taken out while taking advantage of the sunlight's unique chemical processes.
When the coffee is ready to be roasted, the "green" coffee is put through a gravity table which automatically separates the coffee based on size and weight. The heavier and bigger coffee moves to the left while the smaller coffee and pieces slide to the right where they are recycled.
Once the coffee is thoroughly dried, it is called parchment, named after the parchment-like membrane surrounding the coffee. Coffee can be stored as parchment in a cool, dry area for years and is sometimes done to age it like aging a fine wine.
Finally, The green coffee is roasted in a popcorn-style roaster which creates better roasts than typical coffee roasting machines. Coffee roasting is considered an art form where the roaster's skill determines which unique coffee characteristics are brought out, based on multiple roasting temperatures during each roast. Different roasters will create a different taste using the same coffee.
Our 2nd stop was at Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company. For generations the volcanic mountains of Hawaii's Big Island have produced one of the finest coffees in the world. Sheltered from the Pacific tradewinds, the Holualoa area has a unique climate of seasonal rainfall and sunny blue skies - the perfect environment for growing the superior Arabica bean known as Kona Blue Sky Coffee.
At Kona Blue Sky Coffee, we had a guide that gave us a tour of the coffee making process and a more detailed explanation of coffee farming methods.
Coffee farmers plant fruit trees such as papaya trees to entice birds to eat the fruits instead of the coffee cherries.
At Kona Blue Sky Coffee, they had unprocessed chocolate. The good stuff (cocoa beans) is right inside that yellow pod.
Sara and I felt compelled to take a picture in front of the cocoa tree. Eleni was a little embarrased by the whole scene.
Eleni did not look very happy when we told her that we were considering to visit a third coffee farm.
What better way to wash off the coffee flavor than drinking beer.
After a long day of coffee tasting, jumping into the hot tub was a very good idea.
Eleni decided to hang out by the pool with her mom while I jumped into the water.

Nice evening to be at the pool swimming and having a beer.
Our last visit to Kahaluu Beach.


In our last night in Kona, we got ready and headed to downtown Kona for our last dinner in the island.
Before our dinner, Eleni decided to have dinner at the Walmart parking lot where she was able to have this view while eating.
We decided to go back to the Kona Inn Restaurant for our last dinner. The mai tais were good, but they were not anywhere as strong as the ones that I had our last time there.
The view was great. We could not complain about that. Plus, Eleni was behaving.
Our dinner was delicious.
After a few drinks, I started taking artistic photos. Alcohol and creativity do not really go hand on hand.
Eleni was such a great little girl. She let us have dinner, and she went to sleep, so we were able to have a couple more drinks.
Sara and Eleni hang out on the lanai as we get ready to head over to the aiport.
Our flight was delayed by an hour, but the music and dancing made the delayed very enjoyable.

Well family and friends. This is all for this edition. It is time to start planning our 2009 vacation.